Discover Setúbal: A Day in My Hometown

By: Rita Duarte, Portugal

In: accessible travel, country guides, Destinations, Europe, ocean tourism

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Discover Setúbal: A Day in My Hometown

A local tour in Portugal by Rita Duarte

Discover Setúbal: A Day in My Hometown

People often ask me where I’d spend a free day if I wasn’t working. More often than not, my answer is the same: my hometown, Setúbal.
Located less than an hour south of Lisbon, Setúbal is often overlooked by visitors heading straight to the beaches of Arrábida or the ferry to Tróia. Yet for me, it’s one of Portugal’s most authentic cities — a place where fresh seafood, local traditions and life by the Sado Estuary come together effortlessly.

Although I’ve travelled across Portugal helping visitors discover accessible places, Setúbal is where I slow down. It’s where I meet friends for coffee, wander through the old town, enjoy the freshest seafood and end the day watching the sun set over the Sado Estuary.
If we were spending the day together, this is exactly where I would take you.
One of the things I love most about this itinerary is that you can enjoy it entirely on foot. From Praça do Bocage to Mercado do Livramento, from lunch overlooking the river to Casa da Baía, the entire route follows pedestrian streets, lowered kerbs and accessible riverside paths.

Over the past few years, Setúbal Municipality has continued investing in improving accessibility throughout the city, making it increasingly welcoming for everyone who wishes to visit.

Start the Day at Praça do Bocage

I always begin in Praça do Bocage, the city’s main square and, in many ways, its living room. Named after Manuel Maria Barbosa du Bocage, one of Portugal’s best-known poets, it is where locals meet for coffee, friends catch up and everyday life unfolds at an unhurried pace.
You may notice the elegant purple building overlooking the square. That’s Setúbal’s Town Hall, which has watched over the city for generations. Choose one of the outdoor cafés, order a coffee and simply watch the city wake up before beginning your walk.
From here, the historic centre is easy to explore thanks to its pedestrian streets, lowered kerbs at crossings and relatively flat layout, allowing most visitors to move around comfortably whether walking or using a wheelchair.

Wander Through the Historic Centre

Allow yourself to get pleasantly lost among the traditional cobbled streets of downtown Setúbal. Unlike many Portuguese historic towns, much of the city centre is surprisingly flat, making it enjoyable to explore at a relaxed pace.
These charming streets lead to intimate squares such as Largo das Machadas, where independent shops, traditional cafés and family-run restaurants create an atmosphere that feels genuinely local. This is the side of Setúbal I love most — authentic, relaxed and wonderfully unpretentious.

Experience the Colours of Mercado do Livramento

Just across the road you’ll find Mercado do Livramento, widely regarded as one of the world’s finest fish markets. CNN has even included it among the best fish markets in the world, and after visiting, it’s easy to understand why.
If possible, plan your visit for a Saturday morning. This is when the market truly comes alive, with locals doing their weekly shopping, fishmongers proudly displaying the day’s catch and colourful stalls overflowing with fruit, vegetables and flowers.

But Mercado do Livramento tells much more than the story of food. Its magnificent blue-and-white tile panels celebrate Setúbal’s rich fishing heritage, while sculptures portraying traditional professions — from fishermen and fish sellers to butchers and the iconic varinas — pay tribute to the people who helped shape the city’s identity over generations.
The market is also pleasantly easy to explore, with step-free access, wide aisles and an adapted toilet, allowing most visitors to enjoy one of Setúbal’s greatest landmarks comfortably.

Lunch Like a Local

By now, you’ll probably be ready for lunch, and in my opinion, not taking the opportunity to enjoy seafood in Setúbal would almost be a crime. Less than a ten-minute walk from the market is one of my favourite restaurants: O Miguel. Besides serving outstanding seafood, it also offers step-free access and an adapted toilet, allowing more visitors to experience one of Setúbal’s traditional restaurants comfortably.

Of course, no visit to Setúbal would be complete without trying choco frito (fried cuttlefish), probably the city’s most iconic dish. It’s our equivalent of fish and chips — the meal everyone associates with Setúbal and one that certainly deserves a place on your table.

Personally, though, if I had just one lunch to enjoy in my hometown, I’d choose something different. A perfectly grilled sea bream (dourada), a plate of red mullet (salmonetes) or a rich seafood rice better reflect the incredible quality of our local cuisine. With the Atlantic on our doorstep and the Sado Estuary providing exceptional seafood, I think these dishes capture the true flavour of Setúbal at its very best.
If you’re visiting during summer, don’t miss the grilled sardines. Simple, fresh and incredibly flavourful, they are one of Portugal’s greatest culinary traditions.

Walk Along the Sado River

After such a delicious lunch, my favourite recommendation is a leisurely walk along Setúbal’s riverside promenade.
This is one of the city’s most welcoming public spaces. Wide, flat and fully pedestrianised, it’s a place enjoyed by everyone — families pushing prams, older couples, children riding bicycles, friends meeting for a drink and people using wheelchairs or mobility scooters. I think that’s what makes it so special: it’s a riverside promenade designed to be enjoyed by all.

As you make your way along the waterfront, you’ll be rewarded with beautiful views across the Sado Estuary, the Arrábida Natural Park and, in the distance, the Tróia Peninsula, where the river meets the Atlantic Ocean.
At the end of the promenade you’ll reach Praia da Saúde, a small urban beach where several cafés with outdoor terraces provide the perfect excuse to slow down once again.

A Taste of Setúbal

This is the perfect moment to discover another local speciality: Moscatel de Setúbal, our famous sweet fortified wine.
If you’re feeling a little more adventurous, pair it with fresh Sado oysters. Locals often describe them as the “Rolls-Royce of oysters” because of their exceptional quality.
One of my favourite places to enjoy them is Ostras Sobre Rodas, a small food truck overlooking the estuary where simplicity, freshness and the surrounding scenery come together perfectly.

Before You Leave…

Before saying goodbye to Setúbal, I always recommend one final stop at Casa da Baía.
Fully accessible, with a step-free entrance and adapted toilet, it occupies a beautiful historic building dedicated to showcasing the very best of the region. Here you’ll find local wines, Moscatel, artisan products and a carefully curated selection of regional delicacies that make wonderful souvenirs.

The centre also includes a small exhibition dedicated to one of Setúbal’s greatest symbols: its resident bottlenose dolphins.
In fact, the Sado Estuary is home to the only resident community of bottlenose dolphins in Europe, one of the many reasons why Setúbal Bay has been recognised as one of the Most Beautiful Bays in the World.

Every city has its landmarks, but what makes Setúbal special is something much harder to describe. It’s the warmth of its people, the freshness of its seafood, the beauty of the Sado Estuary and the feeling that life is meant to be enjoyed a little more slowly.
Perhaps that’s what I love most about my hometown. Whether you’re exploring on foot, using a wheelchair or simply looking for a slower pace, Setúbal invites everyone to experience it in exactly the same way: with good food, beautiful views and genuine hospitality.
I may be biased because this is my hometown, but I hope that after spending a day here, you’ll understand why I always look forward to coming back.

Authors

Rita Duarte, Portugal

My name is Rita and I am the founder of Portugal 4all Senses, a travel company focused on accessible travel for individuals with reduced mobility, seniors and blind travellers.

We are based in Lisbon but operate on an a national scale. Our travellers are individuals looking for a smooth travel experience adapted to their needs mainly from English speaking countries (UK, Canada, USA).

We offer a range of services like: adapted transfer, adapted car rental, caregivers, private tours, multiple days holidays and group holidays focused on learning, culture and adventure like our Inclusive Surf Trips.
Jennifer Tonin, ITALY

For 28 years, Jenny has built a global career in the corporate sector, holding senior international roles across Automotive, Connected Products and Services, and global project management.

Her career includes serving as Global Commercial Director at Pirelli Connected Tyre Division and as a Principal Consultant, where she oversaw board meetings for leading organisations including Ferrari, Maserati and Illy. She has worked with some of the world’s most recognised brands, including Aston Martin and Jaguar Land Rover, specialising in global project delivery and go-to-market strategies, with a strong ability to connect different cultures, markets, businesses and people.

Her experience of recovering from a stroke, including navigating communication, mobility and travel, has given her a first-hand understanding of the barriers people can face and the importance of designing travel around people, rather than expecting people to adapt to the system.

As a Board Member of Accessible Travel, Jenny will lead the development of the outdoor adventure section, bringing together her corporate experience, international perspective and lived experience to help make adventure and travel more accessible to everyone.
Nasim Khorsandi, IRAN

My name is Nasim Khorsandi, and I have been working in the field of accessible and sustainable tourism in Iran for several years. My background includes training programs, research projects, and initiatives with municipalities and NGOs, particularly focusing on accessibility in historical cities such as Isfahan and Yazd.

I would be delighted to contribute as a local storyteller/insider by sharing articles and case studies about accessible tourism experiences and destinations in Iran. I believe these stories could add valuable perspectives to your global platform.
Vivienne Gunning, SOUTH AFRICA

Vivienne Gunning is a senior expedition leader, Africa specialist, travel photographer, artist, and storyteller based in Cape Town, South Africa. With over 30 years of hands-on experience across 35 African countries, she brings unmatched depth in remote expedition leadership, aviation logistics, lodge development, and high-end guest care for clients including Bushtracks Expeditions, National Geographic Expeditions, and WWF.

Her expertise shines in accessible and assisted travel—designing and personally accompanying realistic, empathetic journeys for solo travelers, seniors, those recovering from challenges, or anyone with mobility, stamina, or situational needs (e.g., aging-related fatigue, medication effects, or first-time exposure to Africa’s intensity). She focuses on human judgment over checklists: gentle pacing, reading subtle cues, proactive reassurance, and leveraging local relationships to make ambitious adventures feel safe, dignified, and deeply rewarding—without diluting the wild.

Vivienne complements pre-arrival tools (like WelcoMe’s notifications) with on-the-ground companionship that adapts in the moment amid heat, long transfers, remote terrains, and cultural rhythms. Her approach turns vulnerabilities into strengths, ensuring guests feel seen and supported every step.

Beyond leadership, she captures the continent’s soul through travel and wildlife photography (pausing the world to reveal its quiet dignity) and painting emotional interpretations of wild places available as originals, prints, or commissions. She shares field stories via her blog, motivational talks (emphasizing resilience, women’s strength, and trading comfort for curiosity), and workshops for groups, forums, or corporate events.

Find her work at viviennegunning.com, follow on Instagram @VivieGunning (or @VNGwild), or connect via WhatsApp +27 (0)82 895 0411 or gunningvivienne@gmail.com.

Passionate about Africa’s wild corners, Vivienne is dedicated to making them reachable for everyone—through presence, possibility, and heartfelt storytelling. Let’s uncover your next chapter together.
Sea 4 All, ITALY
Bianca Moody, SPAIN

My name is Bianca, and I’m a solo female traveller, kidney transplant patient, and visually impaired advocate currently based in Spain. Because of my lived experience, accessibility is not an abstract concept for me; it directly shapes how safely, freely, and confidently I’m able to move through the world.

While travel can present added challenges, I also actively choose to explore destinations where accessibility information may be limited or unclear, with the goal of understanding and communicating what travellers truly need to know.

I’m bilingual in English and Spanish, and through living in Spain I’ve developed strong familiarity with accessible travel considerations across different regions and cultures. I’ve also recently created an Instagram account, where I plan to share honest travel experiences, accessibility insights, and personal reflections around travelling with a disability and chronic health history. My focus is on showing that inclusive travel is not a luxury but more an option.
Gavin Neate, SCOTLAND

I get out of bed thinking about my "Why" (thanks, Simon), and I go to bed thinking about it, too.

My "Why" is driven by a single conviction: that when we view everyone through an equitable lens and assume everyone has something to add, society gains infinitely more than it loses. I don’t just advocate for inclusion; I build the tools to make it a reality.

The Journey So Far:
In 2011, while working for Guide Dogs for the Blind, I realised technology was the frontier for accessibility. Since then, I’ve been focused on turning that realisation into real-world impact:

2012: Invented the world's first smartphone-operated pedestrian crossing (Button).

2017: Launched WelcoMe, a platform redefining disability awareness and customer service.

What WelcoMe Does:
WelcoMe bridges the gap between disabled visitors and service teams before they meet. By allowing users to communicate their needs in advance, we eliminate the anxiety of stepping out the door and equip staff with "sticky," actionable training. It’s not just a tool; it’s a framework for dignity.

With 1.3 billion disabled people worldwide, my goal is to fundamentally change how society interacts and ensure everyone achieves their true value. It’s a massive challenge, which is why I look forward to taking another step toward it every time the sun rises.

Let’s Connect:
If you are a positive, engaging person who believes in equity of opportunity and that positive action can change the world... I want to connect with you.

Please reach out, engage, and let’s be a part of the solution together.
Il Viaggio Travel, COSTA RICA
Elsie Gabriel, India
Stella Waterhouse, UK
Handicap X, GERMANY
Village 4 All, ITALY
Open Door Organization, United States
Tur 4all Travel, SPAIN
Insolito Posto, ITALY
Acc-Red (Accessibility Redefined), INDIA
Ruote Libere, ITALY
Matilda Wilson, AUSTRALIA
Accessible Switzerland, SWITZERLAND